Screen Print the DIY way
220V hand print all t-shirts and other clothes using the screen print (some time called silkprint) method. Screen printing allows us to print very fine lines and offers high quality prints. We use very good textile ink so that the prints look as crisp and fine as the were when you first bought them even after many, many machine washes. You can find our t-shirts at our ETSY store, at some stores in Tel Aviv, you can see them here at our site and at our flickr.
As avid DIY printers we make everything ourselves - from the graphics to building the wooden frames to the actual printing.
This is how it goes:
THE MATERIAL & TOOLS
Wood, glue, net for textile screen printing, photo emulsion for textile screen printing, textile color for screen printing, hammer, clasp gun, squeegee for screen printing, red lamp, “dark box”, metal disposable pie tin, 200 W bulb, image on a transparent plastic film
THE PROCESS
1. THE FRAMES
Let’s start from the very beginning - the frames. We are buying offcuts very cheaply from a carpentry shop in our neighborhood.
They cut it for us into the length that we need.
Then we put together the frames in the most simple (but surprisingly sturdy) way - glue and clasps!
The ready frames have to dry for a day or so.
We then stretch a net special for textile screen printing onto the frames in the same way that you would out canvas for oil paintings - start at the middle of each side and work towards the corners. It is important that the net is stretched very, very tightly onto the frame.
The net comes in several different densities. The more fine details your design have the finer net (the higher number) you will need. However the finer the net is the faster it the color will stick to it and after a few prints the net will clog.
The next step is to wash the net with a solution of warm water and something that works strongly against fat - such as dish washer soap for example.
2. PHOTO EMULSION
We spread photo emulsion for textile print onto the net. It is important to make spread it very evenly and thinly - not too thick but still covering the net totally. 1 spoon emulsion is enough for a 40 x 60 cm screen. I find it easiest to spread the emulsion all over the net with the help of a spoon and then work it out evenly on the net using a squeegee. We use a photo emulsion that is special for textile printing - there are a few different types. Make sure to ask at your local shop so that you get the correct emulsion.
After spreading the emulsion on the frames they have to be for 24 h in a dark place in order to dry. We have a special darkbox for this:
One of our neighbors bought a new fridge and I snatched the cardboard box which is excellent as a “dark box”.
For the frames to dry properly, its important to put something between the frames in the box so that air will be allowed between the frames and so that they do not touch each other.
3. SCREENING
Prepare the screening area by putting a piece black cloth or paper that is larger than the frame on a straight surface (floor, table, wherever).
Make a whole in a pie tin an put it around a 220w (or more) light bulb place it about 50 cm over the place where you will place the frame.
Print the graphic design (in this case our electricity pole) on a transparent plastic film.
Take out the frame from the dark box and put the film onto the frame. It is a good idea to put a transparent piece of glass on top of the plastic film so that the film won’t move during the screening.
Expose the frame to 200 W light (or more) for about 40 min. The time is very important - too long or too short exposure will damage the frame. The time of the exposure depend on the level of sensitivity of the emulsion and the watt of the bulb. It will therefore be a little different depending on the brand of emulsion you’re using and of the power of the bulb. 500 W bulb will shorten the time of exposure to 10 min whereas a 150 W will lengthen the time to about 1 h 10 min.
Close the light and bring the frame to the shower. Use the highest pressure your shower handle can make and direct lukewarm water on the the frame. After a while the image will appear. The emulsion which wasn’t exposed to light will wash away. The emulsion that was exposed to the light has coagulated into solid plastic.
4. PRINTING
After the frame has dried, the printing process can begin!
Prepare the material you want to print on. Make sure to put an old newspaper or something inside the t-shirt so that the color won’t get through the material.
Put masking tape along the sides of the frame so that the paint won’t get under the frame.
FrameTake a look at our flickr for more pictures
Place the frame on the shirt or material and apply a little special screen print paint for textile onto the frame.
Make sure that the frame doesn’t move while you spread the color evenly. Do not apply too much color, and do not apply it too many times - however make sure that you covered every part of the print.
There is something magic about printing…
After a few times the net will start getting clogged by color. Make sure that you clean it directly very carefully - again in lukewarm water.
4. IRONING
Let the print try for at least 30 min. Iron the print to fix the color in the material. We usually put a silk-paper between the shirt and the iron so that the paint won’t stick to the iron. Iron the print for at least 30 sec - 1 min - make sure not to burn the shirt by moving the iron all the time.
Look at our flickr for more pictures
5. REUSE THE FRAMES
When you get tired of your new designs you can clean the frames and reuse the net using chlorine. The expensive materials in the frames are the wood and the net so it makes a lot of sense to reuse them. It is however a long and painstaking process to get the old emulsion out of the net…
In the middle of the process of cleaning the frames - we are getting there slowly but surely….
THATS IT. BEST OF LUCK!
I’d be happy to help you (if I can) with any other question you might have!
Other online guides that might be useful:
Take-what-you-have-at-hands DIY guide to very simple form of printing by craftgrrrl
Nice guide to screen-printing on shirt
Guide to print on paper by Speedball (who also suggest using their materials of course). Comprehensive guide with explanation of different methods.
!
Some of our screens….
colors
hi. i’m a print designer. would love to work together on some prints, or co-op some way. can send some stuff on mail.
bye.
Comment by tamar — February 27, 2007 @ 3:27 am
איך אני מדפיס את התמונה על חולצה אחר כך?
Comment by canaan — March 13, 2007 @ 12:42 pm
אתה שם את התבנית שיצרת מעל החולצה ומורח צבע
כל תבנית זה צבע אחד בהדפסה
Comment by יוס — March 15, 2007 @ 9:09 am
nice , the DIY way is always nice , we did it almost the same . . even the dark box and all . . though for the exposing we used stronger projector - like 500 w for much shorter time - between 7 to 10 minutes of exposure . .
way to go , wish i had more time to do some screen printing
Comment by klone — March 17, 2007 @ 5:29 am
is there a more detailed version of this process, including the specific materials (the net you use, emulsion brands etc.)?
preferably in hebrew, but english will do.
thanks, and nice works.
Comment by dori — March 30, 2007 @ 3:06 pm
Hi Dori
The emulsion we use is FOTECOAT 1068 by Foteco - a special emulsion for textile. Th enet comes in 40-something, 50-shomehting, 70-something and 100-something. The higher the number the denser the net. Choose the net according to the fine details you have in you print. Plenty of very fine lines - choose a higher number - larger lines more graphic designs - choose a lower number. I recommend the 50 something for most stuff. The denser nets tend to get clogged with color very fast and you end up having to wash the frames after 3 prints only.
We will work on the guide and try to make it clearer and better. We are however very busy now with the T-Market coming up in a week - so have some patience.
Comment by Paulina — March 31, 2007 @ 1:08 am
Thanks Paulina, You’ve been very helpful!
Comment by dori — March 31, 2007 @ 2:04 am
[…] פאולינה ומירב ימכרו אותם בשוק הטישרטים בסוף השבוע הזה. הן גם העלו לאתר של 220voltage מדריך DIY להדפסת סילקפרינט. […]
Pingback by Fogelmania » ארכיון » טישרטים חדשים של 220V — April 3, 2007 @ 6:28 am
Thanks For the great artical, always nice to shere info.
Comment by Adam-Noise — April 12, 2007 @ 12:12 pm
[…] hand made designs coming from this little Tel Aviv design shop. All the designs they do are hand screened (see more about their process here). You can shop all their designs on their Etsy shop […]
Pingback by Mechanical Horse T-shirts by 22V at Tcritic - The Daily T-Shirt Blog About T-Shirts — May 9, 2007 @ 11:20 am
[…] Screen Print the DIY way […]
Pingback by » Summer Top with Handprinted Screenprint — May 24, 2007 @ 4:28 am
In looking over your tutorial and the photos I noticed several problematic areas. I would like to offer some suggestions if you don’t mind in order to assist you in making your work easier. While there are more things that could be altered, I chose to mention only the most important ones that will benefit you the greatest.
Darkroom - I noticed the photo of the lamp with the red bulb. And, you mentioned the kitchen-which-has-gone-darkroom. While it is true that the coated screens must be placed in a dark room to dry, it is not necessary to coat your screens in a dark room and certainly not illuminated with a red bulb. Most screenmakers will apply emulsion to the screens in ordinary room light or brightly illuminated with yellow bug lights or using yellow Encapsulite tubes over fluorescent lamps.
Coating procedure - There is a lot of confusion on how to coat a screen. About half of all the shops I visit as a consultant (anywhere from 500 to over 1,000 a year) and almost every person who attends one of my seminars at the trade shows or at the School of Screenprinting is coating incorrectly. Most often they are upside down with the stencil on the squeegee side or they are so thin on either side that they have to make multiple strokes to get a decent deposit of ink. Some revert to a print-flash-print-flash-print technique to get a salable product. I teach a method that will allow a single pass to get the required amount of ink down on the substrate each and every time.
Your emulsion coating technique has to be correct. Here is the quick answer using a squeegee for a scoop coater. Most screenmakers will use a scoopcoater for applying the emulsion, however before they were invented in the 1960s, we used a squeegee as you do. You will find complete details in an article at the Screenprint Store ( http://screenprintstore.com ) online.
Note: The thickness of the wet ink deposit on the substrate is always equal to the thickness of the stencil. A thicker stencil will create a thicker ink deposit and require less strokes and thus faster printing.
1. Stand the screen up on a tabletop and leaning against the wall. The bottom of the screen should be facing you. Next, press the polyurethane blade against the mesh at the bottom of the screen and spoon the emulsion onto the top of the squeegee. Tilt the squeegee slightly against the mesh and move it upwards at a speed of about 1 inch per second. Gravity will make the emulsion flow against the mesh. This will allow the emulsion to enter into the mesh openings and flow through the mesh to the squeegee side.
2. Check to see if the emulsion has flowed through the mesh and you can see shiny emulsion on the squeegee side of the frame. If not, make another pass on the bottom as explained above. Repeat this until the squeegee side of the screen shines with wet emulsion. This means that the emulsion has sufficiently filled the mesh openings and gone completely through the mesh.
3. No one can tell you how many coats this will take, as it is dependent on the mesh opening, the thread diameter, the tension level, the temperature of the emulsion and other factors. It will vary from day to day, so don’t get lulled into using two coats on 156-64 and 3 coats on 110-80, as it will not produce consistently coated screens.
4. When the squeegee side is shiny with emulsion turn the screen around and make a similar pass on the squeegee side to push the emulsion back through the mesh to the substrate side where it will form a proper stencil. Remember that wet ink deposit is always equal to the thickness of the stencil. An additional coat or two on the squeegee side can produce a slightly thicker stencil, which will produce a slightly thicker ink deposit.
5. Using a piece of cardboard or old business card, you can scrape any excess residue from the edges of the coated area. If the image area is not smooth, you can always repeat the process until you have a uniform coat of emulsion. You can do this a few times (or until the emulsion begins to dry) as you will only be pushing emulsion from one side to the other.
If you follow these instructions you should have the proper stencil thickness for the given mesh.
Drying the Coated Screen - Dry the screen with the print side down. Gravity will allow the emulsion to settle into a smooth stencil as it dries. I noted that in the photo you show the screens drying with the print side up. I love your refrigerator box darkroom!!!
Exposing the Emulsion - I noted that you mentioned the wattage of the bulb as an indicator of time to expose the screens. The wattage is not the determining factor in exposing emulsion. It is the range of UV energy that is important to the polymerization of the emulsion. We need a UV energy source in the range of 280 – 400 nanometers. The sun is the best source of this range of UV energy, or a metal halide is the best manmade source.
While you can use a normal incandescent light bulb as you suggest, you can greatly lower the exposing time by using a better UV energy source. The sun is the best source of the proper UV energy and is readily available worldwide. There is an article at Screenprint Answers (www.screenprintanswers.com) on the Internet about using the sun to expose your emulsion. On a clear day at noon in the summer, 20 seconds should harden the exposed emulsion. On a clear day at noon in winter, it may take 40 seconds. Under hazy, cloudy conditions or during the late afternoon, it might take up to several minutes or more.
If you must expose your screens at night I would suggest that you use a photoflood bulb or at least a quartz halogen work light bulb to lower your exposures.
Positive Placement - I also noted that you use the same method used by No Media Kings for the exposure set up. While this method works, there is a better way that has been in use since the turn of the century. The method you describe has only been mentioned for the past couple of years, and I believe it has sufficed with the advent of blogging and DIY instructables online.
There are instructions on using a Compression Exposure Unit at Screenprint Answers (www.screenprintanswers.com) but in brief they are:
1. Choose a place indoors, away from direct sunlight to prepare your exposure unit. Place a sheet of foam cut to fit into the screen on a table and cover it with the piece of black cloth.
2. Place the screenprint frame - coated with emulsion that’s dried – over the of the foam and cloth squeegee side down with the bottom of the screen facing upward. Because the emulsion is ‘slow’ you can do this indoors if you act quickly.
3. Place the film positive to be exposed on the emulsion surface “wrong reading” (i.e. backwards) in the center of the screen. Assure that the image is square with the frame by using a T-square or ruler to measure. Once in place, tape it down with the Scotch Brand 810 Magic Tape.
4. Place a clean plate glass (do not use tempered glass as it will inhibit the UV light) over the art, sandwiching the art between the glass and the screenprint mesh.
5. Expose the emulsion to UV energy from above. This unit can be carried out into the sun for 20 seconds on a bright day to expose the emulsion. Or you can use a single point light source situated above the unit. The distance from lamp to screen should be equal to the diagonal of the frame.
6. You can use the inexpensive Step Wedge Exposure Calculator (http://www.screenprintstore.com) for determining your exposure times.
Using this method you will find that your images will be much sharper and that you will be able to expose very fine lines.
I hope this information helps to increase your quality and productivity. May all your impressions be great,
Bill Hood
___________________________
Bill Hood
School of Screenprinting
Creative Solutions for Business
USA: 5601 Brodie Lane, Suite 620-147
Austin, Texas 78745-2513 USA
Austin Phone: 512.535.3686
Houston Phone: 832.519.1045
U. S. Cell Phone: 512.801.6458
E-mail Bill@schoolofscreenprinting.com
Web. www.schoolofscreenprinting.com
___________________________
Comment by Bill Hood — May 25, 2007 @ 8:20 pm
[…] for Screenprinters) for determining your exposure times. will make sharper images and finer lines Screen Print the DIY way If you must expose your screens at night I would suggest that you use a photoflood bulb or at […]
Pingback by Plans for home made units - T-Shirt Forums — July 2, 2007 @ 3:14 pm
Hello
Great book. I just want to say what a fantastic thing you are doing! Good luck!
Bye
Comment by tovorinok — July 5, 2007 @ 3:34 am
[…] Screen Print the DIY way […]
Pingback by » Electricity Pole — July 14, 2007 @ 4:30 am
[…] Screen Print the DIY way […]
Pingback by » Women’s 3/4 Sleeves Top with Tree Print — September 1, 2007 @ 2:33 pm
[…] Screen Print the DIY way […]
Pingback by » Women’s Hoodie with Grass Print — September 1, 2007 @ 2:39 pm
[…] Screen Print the DIY way […]
Pingback by » Women’s Long Sleeved Shirt with Dandelion — September 1, 2007 @ 2:48 pm
[…] Screen Print the DIY way […]
Pingback by » Women’s Long Sleeved Shirt with Tree — September 1, 2007 @ 2:50 pm
[…] Screen Print the DIY way […]
Pingback by » 220 Logo Shirt — September 1, 2007 @ 2:54 pm
[…] Screen Print the DIY way […]
Pingback by » Men’s Hoodie with Electricity Pole — September 1, 2007 @ 2:58 pm
[…] Screen Print the DIY way […]
Pingback by » Men’s T-Shirt with Unicycle — September 3, 2007 @ 11:48 am
[…] Screen Print the DIY way […]
Pingback by » Men’s T-Shirt with Date Palm — September 3, 2007 @ 11:50 am
[…] Screen Print the DIY way […]
Pingback by » Women’s Striped Top with Briar Print — September 3, 2007 @ 11:57 am
[…] Screen Print the DIY way […]
Pingback by » Women’s Long Sleeved Shirt with Leafless Tree — September 3, 2007 @ 12:02 pm
[…] Screen Print the DIY way […]
Pingback by » Men’s T-Shirt with Tricycle — September 3, 2007 @ 12:07 pm
[…] Screen Print the DIY way […]
Pingback by » Men’s T-Shirt with Lamppost Print — September 3, 2007 @ 12:16 pm
[…] Screen Print the DIY way […]
Pingback by » Women’s Long Sleeved Shirt with Date Palm — September 3, 2007 @ 12:23 pm
[…] Screen Print the DIY way […]
Pingback by » Men’s T-Shirt with Leafless Tree Print — September 3, 2007 @ 12:27 pm
[…] Screen Print the DIY way […]
Pingback by » Men’s Longsleeved T-Shirt with Pine Tree Print — September 3, 2007 @ 12:31 pm
[…] Screen Print the DIY way […]
Pingback by » Men’s T-Shirt with Electricity Pole — September 3, 2007 @ 12:33 pm
[…] Screen Print the DIY way […]
Pingback by » Men’s T-Shirt with Electricity Pole - Classic — September 3, 2007 @ 12:36 pm
[…] Screen Print the DIY way […]
Pingback by » Women’s Top with Pine Tree — September 3, 2007 @ 12:42 pm
[…] Screen Print the DIY way […]
Pingback by » Women’s Top with Briar Print — September 3, 2007 @ 12:47 pm
Hi all!
I am Lucy, I have found your website while searching for some info at Google. Your site has helped me in a big way.
Bye
Comment by sopitikoj — September 7, 2007 @ 7:32 pm
I came upon your site by accident, I was trying to get info on screen printing and how it might equate to canvas stretching. There appears to be remarkable similarities. I have created a canvas stretching machine that is an affordable alternative to existing models, it occurred to me that I might be able to stretch silk screen using the same techniques. I was wondering if I might correspond with you to better understand the process and see if your industry has such a need.
Thank you.
Comment by David Weaver — September 9, 2007 @ 8:20 am
hey
thanks so much for this!!!
i was wondering if you could help me out a bit maybe??
would a light table box..building one do me any good??
it would be the same as what you described above, correct??
thanks so much!!!!
Comment by yasmin — September 21, 2007 @ 12:36 am
Thank you very much, this tutorial halps me a lot.
You are the best!!!
Best regards form Serbia
Nikola Vasovic
Thanks again.
Comment by Nikola Vasovic — September 23, 2007 @ 1:32 am
What thickness would you recommend for the piece of glass that you cover the positive with. We are looking to use a less expensive option to lowe the costs of our clothing lines. Thank you for any feedback you can give.
Comment by Jeff Alley — September 26, 2007 @ 9:52 pm
i know many of your site,,i wish there is more…
Comment by keshi — November 13, 2007 @ 11:59 pm
helo deyar sir
my name is khalid
im from indian but my exprinc is 10yers of screen printing i want sum idiyaas for the printing of T shart
my dreems is ur sdudent my lafe is luky
my cell:91+ 09391316052
im good designersn im using from the softwer,
corelldrwra12 & photoshop0.7
plz. contocat me
Comment by Mohd.khalidahmed — November 29, 2007 @ 5:29 am
hi, i love your stuff, this is the best website i have ever seen on T-shirt printing, keep the good work up. i also a starteron screen printing, and i will need your help on preperation of screens.
how can i get the best emulsion paint?
Comment by ABRAHAM — January 4, 2008 @ 1:30 pm
does what it says on the tin,
punk ethos
nice one
Comment by steve — February 6, 2008 @ 4:11 pm
hey!
just read your tutorial, looks awesome.
i am ready to try! just a question. i have borrowed an amazing light table from my old high school for the summer. they are 20W halogen bulbs and there are 8 of them. how do i figure out the exposure time?!
thanks!
Comment by laura — May 17, 2008 @ 6:27 am
If you have any self-wash car wash places near you - you can use their high-powered sprayers to clean out your screens. It does a Fantastic job of cleaning out the old emulsion in about 2 minutes - and no need to use chemicals.
Just make sure your screens are nice and tight.
Comment by Jason — July 1, 2008 @ 11:31 am
Hallo, haven’t done screen printing ~24 yrs. got new poly fabric(washed it), made new dark transpariences, new Speedball emulsion & got to work. Rec to use a 250w flood BBA bulb at 12″ for ~15 mins. only a small section came through, the other areas look yellow brown like underexpo or cooked to long. what is rec for a new 250w bulb. have tryed several tests times from 4 mins to 12mins still areas of no emulsion washing out. Appreciate any input. Monica
Comment by Monica — September 3, 2008 @ 7:35 pm
[…] המקומות לסדנאות של פאולינה ומירב כבר מלאים. גם אחרי שהוספנו עוד סדנה […]
Pingback by Fogelmania » ארכיון » עדכון - סדנת הדפסה חופשית ביום שבת הקרוב — December 24, 2008 @ 6:03 am
Hi, Paulina, I try to print image and text on china cup. Whether your technique
fits to my purpose?
Thanks,
Helena
Comment by Helena — December 26, 2008 @ 4:34 am
Hi Helena,
I don’t know. I never tried printing on china
Comment by Paulina Fogel — December 26, 2008 @ 9:35 am
i need to learn simply how could i make screen ink emulsion or plastisol in my home.thanks
Comment by ahmed afifi — April 26, 2009 @ 2:17 am
thanks for this site.i need simply learn how could i make screen ink at my home.thanks
Comment by ahmed afifi — April 26, 2009 @ 2:20 am
but i have a problem,when i print out the photo i need to print it out on trancpercy or regular?
Comment by emri — April 27, 2009 @ 10:16 am
when can i get a transpert plastic film?
Comment by mike — April 27, 2009 @ 10:18 am
אבל רגע,לגבי השקף,שהדפסתי את זה הדיו לא התייבש.מה לעשות?
Comment by Anonymous — May 12, 2009 @ 10:00 am
צריך להשתמש בשקף מיוחד שמתאים למדפסות דיו
זה היה השקף המתאים?
Comment by Paulina — May 13, 2009 @ 2:57 am
איפה אני יכול להשיג משי?
Comment by אמרי — May 15, 2009 @ 5:13 am
[…] There are a few different printing techniques Check out Screenulacra for some how-to videos on screen printing as well as a large gallery for inspiration and Screen Printing the DIY way […]
Pingback by Screen Printing « through my eyes — May 31, 2009 @ 7:00 pm